The landscape to the north of Albuquerque would be difficult to explain, it is quite
unexpected after the absolute flatness of the land around the city. We were headed
in Bob Vardeman's little Mercedes up towards Los Alamos and the Indian cave dwellings
at Bandelier, the cave dwellings mainly but Los Alamos was on the way so we decided
to call in and see the famous community.
                                      It had rained the previous day and it looked
as though it would be doing so again, Bob looked up at the sky unbelieving, so did
most of the natives but we thought it was nothing unusual. That part of the
country is dry and on the day we had arrived I had been impressed by the seeming
desert which surrounded Albuquerque. We began by driving towards the hills to the
north and gradually the land began to rise. At first I saw many similarities
between the land there and the land in the Mallee in north west Victoria where I grew
up, we passed through one small town and it reminded me so strongly of the little
towns up in the mallee that I would not have been surprised to hear one of the locals
speaking with a 'strine accent.
                              The drive was long but not boring for soon we entered
more hilly land, the geology of which I'd seen often enough in films. The road wound
itself through gorges and gullies cut out of the rock by eons of wear from the rain
and wind. Different layers of rock had been worn away at different rates and each
level hung out or receded back into the faces of the cliffs.
                                                           Just when we were getting
used to that the land began to seem less rugged but more mountainous the bleak cliffs
and bluffs giving way to steeply rising banks of trees and grass once more. We had
passed once again into a land of some fertility, far more fertile than the land we
had seen around Albuquerque and certainly much more so than the land that lay between.
The narrow road wove its way through the vallies between the peaks and at one spot
Bob pointed out that we were in the middle of an ancient volcano crater about twenty
miles across. The soil was very fertile and the grass looked luxuriant It was a
good place for cattle though not, Bob said, when it snowed. Snow. We couldn't
imagine that it would snow so far south but Bob reminded us that we were a long way
from the sea and that we were quite high and getting higher aIl the time. A quick
comparison led us to the astounding conclusion that we were already higher than
Mount Koscusko which is the highest peak in Australia, even though the mountains in
Australia aren't too high and the highest is no exception.
                                                         Los Alamos itself seems
easy to find, we drove along the right road and there were buildings on both sides of
the road but nothing that we counted as being the centre of the place. We drove
on looking out for something and then we had gone right through the town. What
we saw were buildings and houses set in lush green surroundings, a very pleasing sight
to be sure. When we decided that we had better turn around and try again we drove
along the same road back past the same buildings but we saw no more than there had
been before, no matter how hard we strained our eyes. There were some big buildings
which were rather obviously government establishments of one sort or another but
nothing like what we were after by that time, namely somewhere to eat.
                                                                     Finally we
gave up driving up and back along the same road and struck out along one of the
streets leading off from it. Our reward was not much better. We drove a bit further
and the things we saw were not much different from those we'd already seen. We
turned back towards our first road and were lucky enough to finally spy a hamburger
place coming up on our right. We had hoped for something more ambitious but we were
not willing to wait any longer.
                             It was food and that was something.
                                                                Surprisingly we
found our way to the museum easily. It was not your normal museum with a little bIt
of everything but very specialized towards atomic science. The large parking lot was
almost empty and we arrived just in time to miss the first few minutes of the guided

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